FAQ

You can meet our cats and kittens in person at Animates stores:

• Tower Junction – on the first Saturday of every month

• Rangiora – on the second Saturday of every month

⏰ Times: 10:00am – 2:00pm
📢 Please note: Dates may occasionally change, so check our Facebook page for the latest updates.

We also hold Open Days at our HQ (17 Tripoli Street, Rangiora) from time to time.
Keep an eye on our Facebook page for announcements. We’d love for you to come along and meet our gorgeous furbabies!

Private appointments are limited and are reserved for the more timid cats or when we don't have an adoption day planned. Our HQ is at our Presidents home, so we are not open to the public on a daily basis.

Once you have met your kitty and have decided they are the one, we will ask you to fill out our adoption forms, these are vital to the adoption process.  

If your kitty is not quite ready to adventure to their new home yet, we require a $50 holding deposit or full payment. Full payment is required to have cleared by time of pickup of your forever feline.  

Here are our adoption fees:

🐾 Kittens – $250

• Cats aged 10 weeks up to 12 months are classed as Kittens.

🐾Adults – $140

• Cats aged 1 year up to 8 years are classed as Adults.

🐾 Seniors – $90

• Cats aged 8 years and over are classed as Seniors.

🐾 Purebred – $250+

• Cats classed as Purebred are felines of a breed other than a Domestic Cat.

• Please note, we cannot guarantee purebred cats will come with papers.

All cats and kittens adopted from Kitty Kingdom are desexed, microchipped, and vet-checked, and have received at least their first vaccination before leaving our care. Your adoption fee goes towards the costs associated with these procedures.

Adopting through a rescue like Kitty Kingdom ensures your new feline friend is vet-checked, well-cared for, and ready to join your home safely — something you can’t be sure of with kittens given away online.

Not always. The cats and kittens you see listed online are the ones who have been vet-checked, cleared, and are ready for adoption. Others may still be settling into foster care, recovering from vet treatment, undergoing rehabilitation, or waiting for desexing and microchipping before they’re made available. Please note, we don’t do pre-adoptions — cats and kittens only become available once they are fully ready for their new homes.

• Kittens especially 🐾
  Young kittens are often adopted very quickly, sometimes before we even have a chance to list them online. During spring and summer (kitten season), we don’t add all available kittens to the website because numbers are so high and many are adopted directly through adoption events.

• Come and meet them in person 🏠
  If you’re hoping to adopt a kitten during kitten season, the best way is to visit us at an adoption event:

  • Animates Tower Junction – First Saturday of the month, 10am–2pm

  • Animates Rangiora – Second Saturday of the month, 10am–2pm

(Please note: adoption days are subject to cancellation, so check our social media for updates before visiting.)

So even if you don’t see many kittens listed, don’t worry — there may still be little paws waiting to meet you!

Every cat has a unique personality, so it’s important to match their ability to thrive in your household with your family and living environment. Here at Kitty Kingdom, we call cats that thrive in busy households with toddlers and other animals “bomb proof” — meaning they’re confident, calm, and adaptable in most home environments.

• 🌸 Shy or timid cats: Often do best in a quiet, calm home environment where they can feel safe and gradually blossom.

• 👶🏻 Toddlers: Many cats enjoy gentle children, but some prefer a quieter environment. Supervised interactions are always recommended, especially at first.

• 🐶 Dogs: Some cats are comfortable with friendly, calm dogs, while others prefer a dog-free home. A slow, controlled introduction usually works best.

• 🐱 Other cats: Some cats enjoy feline company, while others prefer being the only cat. Pairing depends on their personality, age, and past experiences, and again, a slow, controlled introduction is recommended.

Due to the rescue environment, our cats and kittens are not routinely tested with toddlers or dogs, although we do have our big friendly resident woofer, Einstein, who can help us gauge their reactions. We try to make this clear in each cat’s bio, but sometimes we simply don’t know until they are in a home environment.

If you are interested in a particular cat or kitten and their ability to thrive in your household is not clear from their bio, please ask the team. They can guide you based on the cat’s known history and personality to help you make the best match for your home and family.

The most important thing you can do to make sure your new friend fits into your home is to take your time. Slow introductions are key. Please see our Taking Your Cat or Kitten Home section for tips from the team.

Older cats make wonderful companions 😻 While kittens are adorable, older cats often come with fully developed personalities, so you know exactly what you’re getting — a calm snuggler, a playful mischief-maker, or a chatty companion.

Adopting an older cat can also be incredibly rewarding:

• Immediate companionship: Older cats are usually comfortable in a home environment, making the transition smoother for everyone.

• Less work, same love: They often require less supervision and energy than kittens, and there’s less chance of some of the mischievous things kittens do — like climbing curtains, chewing on everything, or knocking things over.

• Unique personalities: You get a cat with quirks, habits, and a “story” that adds character to your household.

• Giving a second chance: Older cats are often overlooked in rescues. Adopting one gives them a loving home and a chance to thrive.

Older cats bring love, charm, and a touch of wisdom to your home — and they’ll be forever grateful for a family to call their own.

Check out our "Cats for Adoption" page: https://www.kittykingdomcanterbury.com/cats-for-adoption 

‼️Important - keep them indoors:

• Minimum of 4 weeks (longer if timid – ask us if unsure)

• Until fully vaccinated

• Until 6 months old (so they’re more confident and better able to defend themselves)

Letting them out too early risks them running away before they’ve bonded with you and your home. Make sure everyone in the house knows where the cat is before opening any doors or windows.

Set up a safe room:

• Start in one small room for 2–3 days with food, water, bed, litter tray, toys, scratching post, and a safe hiding spot

• Remove hazards: loose wires, curtain cords, sharp or breakable items, open toilets, unlocked windows or chimneys

• Let them explore slowly and calmly at their own pace
  
  

Settling in:

• Talk gently and let them approach you when ready

• Introduce family members gradually, supervise young children

• After a few days, open up the rest of the house room by room
  
  

Introducing other pets:

• The slower you introduce your new cat to your other pets, the better.

• Before introducing them switch blankets and beds with your other pets so that they get used to each other’s smells.

• Once they appear comfortable with each other’s scent you can allow them to explore each other's territory, but still keep them apart.

• When you’re confident that they’re all relaxed in each other’s areas, you can start introducing them. Keep your new cat secure in a carrying basket and allow the other cat free rein to explore and sniff through the mesh for a few minutes. Always keep dogs on a lead during introduction meetings and the new cat in the safety of their carrier.

• Expect there to be a certain amount of staring, hissing and ‘fluffing up’ body language as they get used to each other. It’s perfectly normal behaviour and it will pass, so try not to react. But if you think the introduction is too much too soon, separate them for a while before trying again.

• You’ll need to go through this exercise a few times in different rooms, alternating the ‘secure’ pet and the ‘free’ pet until they react to one another calmly.

• Don’t force them to be close to each other. Give them plenty of room and places to escape to if they just want a bit of peace and quiet.
  
  

Food & care:

• We feed Purina Pro Plan (kitten) or Black Hawk (adult) chicken biscuits

• Transition to new food gradually over 7–10 days

• Kittens need kitten food until 12 months

• We use wood pellets for litter

• Flea treatment only if needed

• Check the vet book for vaccination & worming dates

• Your cat’s microchip is registered with NZCAR – keep your details updated
  
  

First few days – don’t worry if your cat:

• Hides away

• Eats very little

• Doesn’t use the toilet straight away

This is all normal as they adjust.

Download our detailed version here: Tips from the team – taking your cat home 📄

There’s an old wives’ tale that a female cat should have one litter before being desexed. This simply isn’t true. Cats do not need to experience motherhood to be healthy or happy — in fact, desexing before their first heat has the greatest health benefits.

• Prevent serious health risks 🩺
  Female cats that aren’t desexed are at risk of uterine infections (pyometra), mammary (breast) cancer, and ovarian cancer. Mammary cancer in cats is especially aggressive, and desexing early greatly reduces the risk.
  Male cats also benefit — desexing eliminates the risk of testicular cancer and lowers the chance of prostate disease.

• End the cycle of unwanted litters 🐾
  Cats can start breeding from as young as 4–5 months old, and one female can have up to 3 litters a year, with 3–6 kittens each time. Within just 7 years, one female cat and her offspring can theoretically produce over 400,000 kittens.
  Sadly, rescues and shelters see the reality of this every day — thousands of healthy cats and kittens abandoned or surrendered each year because there simply aren’t enough homes.

• Better behaviour, safer cats 😺
  Desexing can dramatically reduce stress-driven behaviours:
  • Spraying/marking drops by up to 90% in males, and often disappears completely.
  • Roaming is reduced by around 60%, which lowers the risk of being hit by cars or going missing.
  • Fighting decreases by more than 50%, meaning fewer abscesses, injuries, and vet visits.

Overall, desexed cats are calmer, friendlier, and more content to stay close to home.

By desexing your cat, you’re protecting their health, improving their quality of life, and helping to prevent the overwhelming number of abandoned and unwanted cats and kittens in our community.

We understand that the cost of desexing can be a barrier for some pet owners. If you are on a low income, we may be able to provide support to make desexing more affordable.

There are also other programs that can help:

• Cats Protection League – Feline Fix: This program offers subsidised desexing for eligible owners in certain areas.

• SPCA Snip ‘n’ Chip: A national program providing low-cost desexing and microchipping for eligible owners.

Microchipping is one of the most effective ways to ensure your cat can always find their way back to you. Unlike collars or tags, which can fall off, a microchip is a permanent form of identification that lasts your cat’s lifetime.

Here’s why it matters:

• Reuniting lost cats with their owners 🐾
  If your cat ever goes missing, vets, rescues, and shelters can scan the chip and contact you right away.

• Registering the chip is essential 📝
  A microchip alone isn’t enough — you must register the number on the New Zealand Companion Animal Register (NZCAR). This ensures your contact details are linked to the chip so you can be reached quickly if your cat is found.

• Keep your details up to date 🔄
  Moving house? New phone number? Remember to update your cat’s registration details. A microchip only works if the contact information is current.

• Proof of ownership 📋
  A registered microchip provides a secure record linking your cat to you, which is especially important if there’s ever confusion about ownership.

• Safety for indoor cats too 🏠
  Even indoor cats can slip out of doors or windows. A microchip gives peace of mind that they can be identified and returned if found.

• Quick, safe, and affordable 💰
  Microchipping is safe, takes only a few seconds. Once registered, it’s valid for the life of your cat — there are no ongoing fees. Registration of the chip costs $15. You'll need to check with your vet for the cost of inserting the microchip.

A microchip is a tiny one-off investment that makes a huge difference — but it only works if it’s registered and kept up to date.

No — microchipping is a very quick and low-pain procedure.

• What happens 🩺
  A vet places a tiny chip (about the size of a grain of rice) just under the skin, usually between the shoulder blades.

• How it feels 🐾
  The process is similar to a vaccination. Your cat may feel a brief pinch, but it’s over in seconds.

• Safe and long-lasting ✅
  The chip stays in place for life and doesn’t cause discomfort once inserted.

• Often done with other procedures ⏱️
  Many owners choose to have microchipping done at the same time as desexing or vaccinations, so the cat barely notices.

For your cat, the moment is minor — but for you, it could make all the difference if they’re ever lost.

Keeping your cat’s microchip details up to date is just as important as getting them microchipped in the first place. If your phone number or address changes, the microchip won’t help unless the information is current.

Here’s what to do:

• Check where your cat is registered 🐾
  In New Zealand, most cats are registered on the New Zealand Companion Animal Register (NZCAR).

• Update your details online 💻
  Log in to your NZCAR account and update your phone number, address, or email. If you don’t have an account, you can contact NZCAR directly for help (0508 567 873).

• Ask your vet or rescue for help 🏥
  If you’re unsure which database your cat is on, your vet or local rescue can scan the chip and check for you.

• Keep it current 🔄
  Make it a habit to update details whenever you move house or change your phone number.

An up-to-date microchip could be the difference between a lost cat staying lost, or being reunited with you quickly and safely.

If a cat keeps showing up, the first step is to assess their condition:

• Look at their health and appearance 🩺

• Healthy-looking and well-fed – the cat may have a home nearby and could just be exploring.

• Thin, unkempt, or hungry – they may be lost or abandoned and need help, but do not assume (some cats who have perfectly loving homes have illness or disorders making them look thin).

Once you’ve assessed their condition, take the following steps:

• Check for an owner 🐾
  Ask neighbours, post on local community pages, and check lost pet listings. Include a photo and description. Always ask for proof of ownership from anyone claiming the cat — for example, vet records, photos, or unique markings not listed in your description.

• Vet check for a microchip 🏥
  A vet can scan the cat for a microchip, which should be free, but call ahead first to confirm. This can quickly reunite a cat with their owner. Make sure you transport the cat in a secure cat carrier.

• Keep the cat safe 🏠
  If you are sure that the cat needs help, bring them indoors if possible.

• Contact your local rescue 🐱
  They can advise on the next steps and provide assistance.

By assessing the cat carefully, checking for an owner, and keeping them safe, you can help ensure they get the right care without making assumptions about their situation.

If you’ve found a cat and you’re not sure if they have an owner, put a paper collar on the cat.
You can download our template and instructions here: Paper collar template📄

We know how stressful it is when a beloved pet goes missing. Here are the best steps you can take right away:

🐾 Search close to home first – Most cats don’t go far. Check under decks, in sheds, garages, trees, neighbouring gardens, and inside your own home.

🐾 Leave familiar scents outside – Place your cat’s bedding, or your unwashed clothing near your door to help guide them home.

🐾 Notify neighbours – Ask them to check sheds, garages, and under houses in case your cat is accidentally shut in.

🐾 Go out in the evening when it's quieter and call for your cat.

🐾 Use social media & online networks – Post your cat’s details and a clear photo on:

• Local community Facebook pages

• The Lost and Found Pets Canterbury Facebook group

🐾 Contact local vets & rescues – Provide them with your cat’s description and microchip details in case your cat is found or handed in.

🐾 Update the microchip register – If your cat is microchipped, contact the registry, e.g., New Zealand Companion Animal Register (NZCAR), to mark your cat as missing.

🐾 Post flyers locally – Include a clear photo, description, and your contact number.

Spraying is usually a sign of stress, territory marking, or sometimes a medical issue. Here are some steps you can try:

• See your vet first – Medical issues such as urinary tract infections can cause inappropriate toileting. A vet check will rule these out.

• Desexing – If your cat is not already desexed, this is the most effective way to reduce spraying behaviour.

• Reduce stress – Changes in routine, new pets, or neighbourhood cats outside can trigger spraying. Providing safe spaces, hiding spots, and vertical climbing areas can help your cat feel more secure.

• Feliway or similar products – These calming pheromone diffusers and sprays can help reduce stress-related behaviours.

• Clean thoroughly – Use an enzymatic cleaner (not ammonia-based products) to remove scent markers where your cat has sprayed.

If spraying continues despite these steps, speak to your vet again or an animal behaviourist for tailored advice.

You’re not alone – this is actually quite common, especially with younger cats. It can be a bit worrying (and frustrating!) but the good news is there are some simple things you can try:

• Cover or protect cords – Cord protectors, split tubing, or even wrapping cords in double-sided tape can make them less tempting.

• Try deterrent sprays – Bitter apple or citrus sprays often work well.

• Offer safe alternatives – Give your cat chew toys, ropes, cardboard, or rubber toys so they have something safe to focus on instead.

• Add extra play and enrichment – Chewing can sometimes be a sign of boredom or extra energy. More play sessions with wand toys or puzzle feeders can make a big difference.

• Supervise when possible – Until the habit eases, try not to leave your cat unsupervised around cords.

With some patience (and a bit of trial and error), most cats do grow out of this stage – especially if they have plenty to keep them busy and entertained 💕

While pet insurance isn’t compulsory, it can be a lifesaver when unexpected vet bills come up. Cats may need treatment for accidents, illnesses, or long-term conditions — and these costs can add up quickly.

• Peace of mind 💕
  Insurance helps cover the cost of treatment, so you don’t have to make tough decisions based on finances alone.

• Accidents and emergencies 🚑
  Even indoor cats can get sick or injured, and emergency vet care can run into the hundreds or even thousands of dollars.

• Ongoing health issues 🩺
  Some cats develop chronic conditions, like diabetes or kidney disease. Insurance can help manage the ongoing cost of care.

If you decide not to get insurance, it’s a good idea to set aside savings for your cat’s future vet bills so you’re prepared for the unexpected.